Coast to Coast, Day 9, Kirkby Stephen to Keld

We were grateful to wake to another cold, clear morning. Over a tasty breakfast of eggs with smoked salmon, juice, toast, and fruit we held a somewhat indecipherable conversation with two Scottish gentlemen also staying at the hotel. I asked if they were hikers and by understanding every fifth word or so, we learned that they were in town for the sheep auction, something about rams, something about how exciting Saturday would be because of something, and that they were from somewhere in Northern Scotland. I’m sure they understood me perfectly. More comprehensible was Mark, the owner of Packhorse which is the company that arranged our travel. The office is in Kirkby Stephen and he kindly stopped by to see how we were doing. He confirmed that we are the last of the Coast to Coasters and we all agreed that autumn is a lovely time to hike because of the fall colors, the cool temperatures, the lack of the dreaded midges, and the fact that we have it all to ourselves. After our fond goodbyes to our B and B hosts, we set out for the Nine Standards and Keld.

There are several routes to continue on to Keld after the summit at Nine Standards and they are determined by the time of year one is hiking. Because of so many visitors during the year, erosion is a problem so walkers are directed to a red, blue, or green route depending on the month they are there. It is very boggy and mucky in the Yorkshire Dales, and this makes hiking a wet and muddy experience in this area. On the way up to the Nine Standards, we crossed several bogs. One steps on what looks like firm green moss only to find that it is a mossy island floating on a muddy swamp and the entrance and exit of hiking boots is accompanied by loud squelching sounds. After several miles of this we weren’t eager to continue the experience. At the Nine Standards we could see over the area we would cross on the Blue Route, an area pocked with bogs.

We decided to do the Green route which would take us to a one lane paved road into Keld. It added a few miles and was a bit boring, but the walking was easy and we arrived in Keld with dry feet.